2015年3月10日 星期二

天空之鏡 Mirror of sky (一)

八年前我們到南美,因為簽證問題,一早把玻利維亞排除在行程之外。到了智利的阿他加馬沙漠,都居然和天空之鏡擦身而過…

當時,天空之鏡還沒有舉世知名,假如當日在智利有人讓我們看這些照片的隨便一張,拼了命我們也要去!

今天,我們終於把這心願了結!

很久沒有到過一個讓我們感動如斯的地方。

我們到過很多地方,拍下了讓大家按讚的照片,但有些地方只要到過之後你會知道照片背後很多不為人知的穿崩…好像小吳哥的倒影其實是在一灘破污水上…南生圍的小碼頭旁邊就一堆雜草…

但天空之鏡…是與眾不同的,因為當你親身到達,感受是…


這是夢境?還是現實?
三百六十度轉一圈,看到的只有天海合一,感覺自己置身在占基利的真人騷內的廠景,幻想著只要我繼續往前走,就會觸摸到一個半球形的天幕,一切都是假的!
當一切太完美,你會懷疑它的真實性…

完全沒有穿崩鏡頭,也不會因為有太多路人而影響心情,因為這麼大的地方就兩輛四驅車,十多個人,誰也阻不了誰,想找個人過來也不容易!
站在這天地合一的大片白色鹽湖上,心中的感動難以用文字表達…人在這裡太渺小,大自然太神奇,但原來這一切是真的!

我親眼看到了,能不動容嗎?

玻利維亞的天空之鏡可謂是大自然中其中一個讓人最嘖嘖稱奇的奇觀! 很多朋友看了照片,沒看懂…讓我們來解解話。

在安第斯山脈形成之初,大片土地被推高,形成了大片的高地,同時也形成了一些淡水湖和海水湖。這個巨大的海水湖經過數萬年的歲月演變,海水蒸發後留下了兩個鹽湖和一些小湖,其中一個就是面積等於十個香港的天空之鏡!

天空之鏡之名一點不假,她平坦如鏡,全個湖面海拔相差最多不過一米。她白如雪,偌大的鹽殼表面白得沒一點瑕疵,而且由於水份的蒸發天然形成無盡的六邊形…人類絕對做不出如此藝術品!

由於她又平坦又雪白,當表面有水時,把一切一切像鏡一樣反映得完美無瑕,讓人分辨不出天和地。這海天一色之景,天下無雙!

每年十二月至二月的雨季期間,天空之鏡會比較多水,所以也是最美麗的時節。但…別以為這些水都是下雨的積水,並不盡然…古時的湖水蒸發掉留下這數個湖,他們之間還是相連的;而天空之鏡也並非全是鹽,數米厚的鹽殼下面是飽和的液態礦物水。


雨季時水量充足,從秘魯和玻利維亞共享的Lake Titicaca,至天空之鏡這大範圍內的湖水會互
通,水位全面上升,以至天空之鏡也會在表面留有一層水。
這只有數公分的水,配合這一片平坦而雪白的鹽殼,創造了夢一樣的海天一色!

By: Jo



Eight years ago, due to visa issues, we ruled out Bolivia in our itinerary to South America.  We missed the Uyuni salt flat even when we were at the Atacama dessert in Chile...

The mirror of sky wasn't as renowned by the world .  If anyone could have shown us any of these pictures, we would make all efforts to go there!

Today, we finally fulfilled this dream!

It's been a while that we are so deeply touched by a place.

We have been to many places and posted photos that you "like", but if you go to some of these places, you will find out a lot of cheating behind the scene...e.g. the reflection of Ankot Wat is on a dirty pool of water, the wooden jetty at Nan Sheng Wai is just besides a bunch of abondon grass.
But the Uyuni salt flat is different, because this is how I feel when I got there...


Is this a dream? Or is this reality?
Make a full 360 degree turn, all you see is sky fused with land. I felt like I am at the set up in the Jim Carrey's the Truman show. I imagine that if I keep walking, I will touch the edge of the giant dome, and realize that everything is unreal!
When everything is so perfect, you question if it is true...

There is no hidden holes, you don't feel disturbed by other tourists because there are only 2 jeeps in the whole area.  You cannot have bother me more, it's in fact quite hard to wave anyone over.
Standing in this land of no border between the sky and the ground, the feeling is beyond words...human beings are so tiny, and nature dominates, and for God's sake, this is real!

I am deeply touched when I see it with my own eyes!

The Uyuni salt flat is undoubtedly one of the most amazing creation of nature!  Many found it difficult to articulate when they see from the pictures, let me try to reveal...

This vast highland was uplifted when Andes was formed.  The highland that was formed also contained a few fresh water and salt water lakes.  The giant salt water lake went through several transformations during the last 30-50 thousand years and eventually dried up , resulting in two salt flats and some smaller lakes.  The Uyuni salt flat, 10 times of the size of Hong Kong, is one of them.

The name "mirror of sky" cannot be more accurate.  The salt flat is as flat as a mirror, only one meter difference throughout.  She is white as snow, defectless, and a network of hexagons were formed on the white surface as a result of slow evaporation of water from the flat salt crust surface...I don't think human is capable of creating such!

Because it is so flat and so white, when it is wet, it reflects everything perfectly.  You simply cannot tell the sky and the ground.  The perfect fusion of sky and ground is unique!

Every year, during the rainy season from December till February, the salt flat is wet and is also the prettiest season to visit.  But, if you think the water on the surface is rainfall, that is not quite so....the salt flat was a result of a huge lake dried up, but the resulting lakes are still connected. The salt flat also isn't entirely solid salt.  Beneath the salt crust which is about several meters thick is saturated liquid containing minerals.  During the rainy season, water overflows from Lake Titicaca and all the lakes in the region results in higher water levels.  The Uyuni salt flat therefore is also wet. 

Just a few centimetres of water, coupled with the flatness and snow white colour of the salt flat, creates this incredibly dreamlike scenery!!

By: Jo






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