2015年3月2日 星期一

重遊庫斯科 Back to Cusco


雖然我們出外旅行都是以背包形式為主,但當你只是一年出去兩三個星期,和現在一年大部份時間都在外時,心態還是有區別的。

重遊秘魯的庫斯科,感受和八年前就有明顯分別的

八年前我們住在Hostel,位置在市中心的Plaza de Armas一圏內,明顯是遊客聚居地,活動範圍也只局限在這一小圏。觀光都是參加當地團,當時我一句西班牙文也不會,所以只能與以遊客為生的人接觸。

今次重遊,住在一個在庫斯科已有7年的美國人的家裡,是一個離市中心很近,又旺中帶靜的住宅區,當地居民的日常設施近在咫尺,雖然只是短短四天,但感受到真正如當地平民地生活的樂趣。

早餐我們走到SAN BLAS MARKET的小攤吃,只光顧過一次老闆娘已認得我們,當地人的早餐一般都是三文治和一杯咖啡或用quinoa做的(賣相有點像馬蹄露)的飲料。午餐我們也堅持和當地人一樣吃小店的menu  - 就是我們的茶餐廳午餐一樣,通常只有A餐和B餐兩款,包括餐湯,主菜和一杯茶,只需s./4-5

原來秘魯人的主餐是午餐,他們大部份是不吃晚餐的,也吃很少,所以晚上只有遊客餐廳和烤雞店營業,我們吃了兩天的烤雞晚餐,另外兩天則在市場買了菜自己煮。

庫斯科的確是一個美麗的城市,不太大,感覺到處走動也很舒服,很悠閒,不會像大城市般烏煙瘴氣。而且庫斯科是到馬丘比丘的出發地,所以到秘魯的話這是個不二之選。

By: Jo


Although we have always travelled on backpacks, you still have a different mindset when you are only travelling once a year for 2-3 weeks, vs when you are always on the road.

I feel significant difference when I visit Cusco this time, after eight years.

Eight years ago, we lived in hostels around Plaza de Armas, obviously a touristic location and we only walk around this small area.  We did all of sightseeings on local tours because I wasn’t able to speak a word of Spanish at that time, and could only manage to deal with people in the tourism industry.

This time, we lived in a B&B – a home of an American student who has been in Cusco for 7 years.  It is a residential complex, in a quite neighbourhood, but close enough to downtown.  We have all daily facilities close by, I really feel the joy of living like a local.

We have breakfast at local stalls in the San Blas market, the breakfast lady already recognized us after the first time.  The locals eat sandwiches for breakfast and a cup of coffee or quinoa drink.  We insist to have local menu lunch, same as what everyone else do.  It is a set lunch, with soup of the day, a main course usually choice of two, and a cup of tea, which costs only s./4-5.

Then, we found out that locals do not eat dinner, their biggest meal of the day is lunch.  So, only tourist restaurants and pollerias are open during the night.  We had two chicken meals and cooked our own dinners on the other two nights.

Cusco is a very beautiful city, not too big.  It feels good walking around, not as crowded as other bigger cities.  Moreover, this is where you start if you want to go to Machupicchu.  Cusco is definitely my number one choice if you are coming to Peru!!

By: Jo







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